(Kimberly: we thought of you CONSTANTLY while here! And sorry for such a long post...I promised you I wouldn't do this, and look at me. The rest of them will be brief, promise!)

Hello! We're in between a quick trip change over. I think it may be a challenge adjusting back to the schedule at home...anyway, this past week we decided to split up a bit. Michael stayed in London with my mom (Nanny) and his Uncle Mark. He had lots of time to play soldiers, play in the park, play music, play chess and gobble up big tasty breakfasts at the local pub and 99 Flake ice-cream cones (that's soft serve vanilla dairy creamy ice-cream with a Cadbury's 99 Flake candy bar stuck in the side, DELICIOUS!); while Anna and I headed for Amsterdam. What a treat to be just the two traveling girls for a few days! In consideration of our tight travel budget, and in the inter

est of trying to be the most fuel efficient, we decided to take the night bus from London (11 hours) instead of the 40 minute plane journey. That experience was worth the trip alone: we had two polar opposite bus drivers, the first outbound being sweet, gentle, calm, kind, young, humorous and a very good driver, and the second inbound being gruff, rude, loud, mean, scary and a horribly bouncy driver. The first man was so wonderful that Anna, and she was especially taken with his devout, but quiet prayers as we all cleared passport control at Dover, suggested we leave the present on his seat that we had brought from London for friends we were visiting in the Netherlands. The second driver, on the other hand, caused me to write a letter of complaint to the company. You would not believe th

e swearing and cursing we heard!
Other interesting aspects of the bus trip, besides comparison of personality types, was the trip on the channel tunnel one way and the ferry the other - Anna had fun hanging out with the teenagers on the buses in front of us in the Chunnel. Sleeping was tough, and we are super thankful my mom provided blankets for us as we ran out the door. The best parts, though, were the long conversations Anna and I had for the hours we were sitting next to each other. Some really powerful and interesting sharing, and I grew to love and appreciate my daughter at yet new levels and depth. Ok, that may seem like quite a lot of blog space to a couple of bus trips, but getting on at 7pm and off at 6 am provides quite a significant experience - bus rides to Amsterdam and back one never forgets.

We arrived in Amsterdam at 5:45 am - two hours early, and much earlier than the trams start or any cafe/tourist office is open. So we found a map of the city on a wall (since I hadn't brought one, traveling kinda blind on this trip, but it's the Netherlands, how hard could it be?!), and we saw that the Anne Frank house wasn't going to be that far of a walk. Our friend had suggested that we go there first as it gets very crowded, and we were traveling with one small bag, so off we went. Amsterdam is usually a pretty place, but early Saturday morning while the litter is still being picked up from Friday night it's really not so attractive. I was hoping we'd run into some sort of early opening cafe, or maybe even a McDonalds?!, but no luck. We needed somewhere to eat, rest for a couple of hours and e

at. I realized that Anna needed to go to the toilet, so I spied down a small canal street what looked like an awning to a small hotel. We went in and I tried to look as presentable as possible (not easy after 11 hours on a bus, wearing clothes that probably won't even make it home...) and asked if we could pay to join their buffet for hotel guests. I expected them to say 'yes', but at a cost...to my surprise they said 'yes' and charged a ridiculously small fee for a HUGE buffet. Perfect! And we were just one canal and a bridge to the museum.
Despite getting to the Anne Frank House thirty minutes before it opened, there was a long line forming. They wouldn't let our luggage in, so I left Anna in line while I raced back to the st

ation to deposit the small bag - ugh! But, on the way, as I was running through the Dam Square I noticed the big fancy hotel, half the distance back to the train station. Again, I made myself as presentable as possible - this time with a little more effort because this was a fancy place, and asked if I could leave my luggage with the concierge. Yeah! Saved myself a long run and 20 minutes! And it was free! Anna was just about to enter the museum when I returned, huffing and puffing, and I managed to regain some composure before entering this truly remarkable museum.
The guidebook at the museum suggests it takes about 60 minutes to tour the house, but we took two and half hours...it was that good. Anna had just finished reading the diary this spring, and knew about everything we walked by an

d could touch. Everybody needs to visit this moving exhibit: it describes one of the most monstrous of human events, and more powerfully the endless depth of human courage, kindness and generosity, and insightfulness that Anne and her father embodied. At the end, Harvard University had put together an interactive exhibit on current world affairs and human rights that we consider inalienable (speech, assembly, religion, privacy, etc.), and the dilemmas we face when one group's rights infringe on another's. Tough questions, difficult answers. I couldn't get Anna out of there.
We walked from there to the Van Gogh museum, winding our way through the canals, now all bustling with people, bikes, trams, cars. We were very fortunate here for there was a special exhibit on Van Gogh's personal challenge to paint the night sky, to capture the brilliance and imagination of the stars. In addition to all the wonderful and beautiful paintings this museum always has on display (the sunflowers, bedrooms, wheat fields), Starry Night was also here, loaned from the MOMA in New York City! And so man

y other amazing paintings from all over the world, brought together just this summer. Not just Van Gogh, but Renoir, Cezanne, Gauguin, too!
We had to whip through here though, so it was kind of a blur of brilliant swirls of color, because we were meeting our dear friends in the Leidseplein Square. Our neighbors from when we lived in Tokyo have moved back to the Netherlands and were so generous to drive in from their village to spend the day with us in Amsterdam and take us back to their house for the weekend. Peter and Sophie have had a baby sister born in the four years since we have seen them, and Naomi was a huge hit with Anna, and vice versa. Sophie and Peter do not speak much English anymore, and so that was a bit of a challenge for the kids, but not being able to verbally communicate didn't bother little Sophie at all! It was great fun to walk through the canal streets with the Blomjous' and they took us to the little secret square, Bagihnhof, that you enter through what looks like the front door of house, but when you go through you enter this sweet, b

eautiful square that has been there for hundreds and hundreds of years. It was the haven of devout Catholic women, even after the protestant church took over in the city. We followed this with a canal boat tour, on which poor Anna slept off and on through - she was such a trooper and kept looking up to see some interesting 17th century building or statue or bridge when I elbowed her hard enough.
On the way back to Velp, our friends' village just a few kilometres from the German border to the east, we stopped in another small village, Loren, for dinner - the Dutch way: small pancakes called poffertjes. I have never tasted anything like these: the alchemy that these were put together with defies anything I've ever tried. An unbelievable combination of flour and eggs, butter

and sugar, I couldn't get enough, and they were just small enough to keep popping in my mouth! Even with washing them down with big glasses of milk, it was not the healthiest dinner, but without a doubt the most delicious I've ever had. And the whole restaurant we were in was set up in the village park temporarily for the summer; hard wood floors, curtains, cast iron stoves and chandeliers, everything!
When we arrived in Velp we took an evening walk around the beautiful neighborhood, complete with thatched houses, streams and bridges, a pond, ducks, neighbors strolling out too, and had a fun late night catching up the past few ye

ars. We reminisced about life in Tokyo, all the things we miss, and managed to skype with Bill so all four of us could be 'together' again. The next day the glorious weather held for yet another day, and I was teasing Erik how Holland is like a grown up Disneyland where the houses are adorable and the sun is always shining. Jolanda and Erik took us too the national open air museum in Arnhem. I think this is the world's best and most interesting museum, and it didn't hurt that this weekend was blessed with sun, sun, sun!
Since the 1920's, buildings from all over the country have been moved to the constantly growing museum as examples of rural, village and city life in the Netherlands over the past few hundred years. There is something here for everybody, no matter their age or interests. Anna drew water from a well, carried it over her shoulder, did archery, learned about early 20th century health care, windmills, and th

e Dutch predilection for collections. The playgrounds were awesome (poor Michael missed out!) and the food great. We went home exhausted, but Erik still had the energy to take me out on a driving tour of the local national park, and up a hill! A big tall hill in the Netherlands, full of heather, overlooking Germany! What a pretty surprise.
And onto the next day, and another one full of sunshine. Almost felt like I was home, except for all the vibrant flowers and greenery and brightly painted benches and bicycles. Anna and I walked with Jolanda to take Sophie and Peter to school, and then with Naomi to her preschool.Naomi held Anna's hand the whole way. They are such sweet children, it was sad to say goodbye, but hopefully it won't be for such a long time this time. Jolanda hoisted two bikes out of the garage and sent Anna and I off on a bike tour of the village, and I showed Anna many of the places the Erik had driven me to (minus going up the

hill...) We went by the castle, the post office, the pretty houses with their flagpoles, swings and thatched rooves. Upon returning we went with Jolanda then to the shops for some pastries and the newspapers I was bringing back for my Dutch speaking brother - a meager 'thank you' for taking care of Michael for the weekend. After indulging in some rich coffee and apple pastry, we were off to see a little of the city of Arnhem before catching the train back to Amsterdam. Arnhem is a busy city with everything a city should have: lots of shops, big and small, many cafes, fountains for little children to play in on a hot day, an interesting medieval cathedral sporting a spire that looks oddly art deco (waaaaaaay ahead of their time up here in the Nether

lands), and a thriving arts community that supports many galleries, fashion houses and theatre. Just walking around for an hour or so we got quite a taste of its vibrancy. Also, I broke down and purchased really colorful panniers for my bike back at home because I had become so enchanted by all the colorful bikes around me here.
Jolanda helped us get on the train bound for Amsterdam. We had some last minute shopping to do here; I wanted to find a Dutch creche (nativity set) to add to my collection from around the world (53 and growing!) and Anna wanted to try some more of the automatic food dispenser machines at Febo that we had on our first day for lunch. Very yummy veal and potato croquettes pop right out of the window, hot and steamy. We found ourselves with a final few hours to

relax in the Leidseplain having a sandwich and a drink before heading back to the bus station for that looooong ride back to London.