Wednesday, April 22, 2009

England #2

Hello again from England! We arrived back to London about two weeks ago and have been busy visiting friends, relatives and wonderful places. The very first things we did, though, were some long showers, a few loads of laundry (thank you Ann!) and some shopping in a grocery store where could actually read what we were buying to eat. After taking care of some banking tasks due to the stolen wallet in Greece, we were off on the train on rainy Good Friday to south Devon. We had been looking forward to our visit at Sharpham Barton with good friends the Zeitlyns for months; we knew it would be an absolute highlight of our 4 1/2 months abroad - and our six days there did not disappoint.

Rain was expected throughout the Easter weekend, but while the wind howled and the clouds poured all over the rest of England we had glorious sunshine and the white, puffy sort of cloud everyday till the last. You cannot really imagine the beauty of the place we had the gift of staying in: the greeness of the hills, whose steep ups and downs as far as you can see gave us the vocabulary lesson of the day for the word 'undulating' - Anna and Michael will never forget that definition now! There is the River Dart peaking in and out of those hills (where Dartmouth gets its name, after the town in Devon at the end of the river), the paths to walk across the fields to village and market town, the woods, the spring daffodils, primroses, wild garlic, the lambs, the calves, just so, so amazing each day. The best part of all, though, was the company of the Zeitlyns; their three children are such good friends with ours. Anna and Michael had a ball playing badminton and croquet on the lawn, getting milk from the farm up the lane, riding bikes to the local town of Totnes, hunting for Easter eggs, playing music, taking walks. On and on the fun they had out in the open air was wonderful to watch. And I greatly enjoyed talking and playing with dear friends Spike and Tory, and with Tory's extended family.

The house at Sharpham is old and pretty: there is a terrace out front to enjoy the view while having tea in the afternoon, a fire burning in the BIG kitchen fireplace, the kettle always boiling, interesting old magazines and books to read, delicious fresh food to cook and eat together, and the MOST comfortable big bed (with a hot water bottle each night!) to sleep in from which I awoke with an amazing view, especially on Easter morning (see the sunrise over the hills in the photo). When we weren't walking across the hills (and spying the sheep shearing van that serves the local farmers - funny that 'Sam' had left no phone # to call, guess everyone knows him? See the photo!), we were just hanging out doing lots of relaxing into what we like to call 'Devon Time' Time for breakfast, time for a walk, time for Elevenses, time for lunch, time for another walk,, time for afternoon tea, etc. etc. Two especially fun things while in Devon were going for a hike on Dartmoor and finding Anna a sweet little traveling celtic harp; it will fit on the plane to bring home!



















We returned a week ago Wednesday during a thunderstorm, very loud and exciting and wet, but the skies were sunny by the time we reached London: such is the incredibly changeable English weather. We have had a couple days exploring London: the Imperial War Museum with its great displays of the WWI trenches (which we especially liked after being in real ones at Gallipoli), the Blitz and too many tanks to count; the Tate Modern art museum; The London Dungeon, Madame Taussaud's, and enjoyed a sunny picnic hanging out in Green Park. Michael was a bit jealous of Anna's harp and was missing his music so we've picked him up a small guitar. That purchase was rather exciting because as we were checking out all the guitars in Tin Pan Alley (the music and recording street off Tottenham Court Road), a film crew was setting up to film that night's scenes of the new Harry Potter movie in the small street and alley way outside. The cast wasn't going to show up for hours - they film from midnight till 5 am! but we took a good look all around to see if we can recognize the buildings in the movie next summer.

We've very much enjoyed just hanging out in Upminster, the eastern suburb of London where we're staying with our friends Michelle and Benjamin. The local playground, library and tea shop have become favorites. We even found the local pie and mash shop! In a pie and mash shop there are just four things on the menu: pie (meat), mash (potato), jellied eels, liquor sauce (kind of a thick, flour-y parsley mixture), and of course, 'afters' - the dessert of the day. We weren't brave enough to try to the eels, but Anna and Michael found the liquor sauce rather interesting. Anna's favorite cake at the tea shop has been Victoria Sponge (after Queen Victoria, popular dessert during her reign?), so she decided to make one herself the other day. And we all agreed it was the best one we've had so far! She's so clever: downloaded an English recipe, figured out how to use the stove and all the metric measurements, even put in fresh strawberries! Michael and a local bobby obliged me by posing for a photo; it's so fun to see the bobbies out on their beat, and I don't think they get many Americans around here asking for their photo!


We've also had time with cousins in Kent, which I always love because it's nice to see the generations of our family reconnecting across the years and miles; I so much hope that our English-American cousins continue to enjoy spending time together. We had four generations together on Sunday. My cousin Marjorie's grandchildren, Jasmine and Olivia, are exactly the same age as Anna and Michael so they had loads of fun learning games that Marjorie used to play with two balls against the wall, and looking at the latest summer fashions with Jasmine's mum, Sam, all while Chelsea played in the background.... And, of course, we ate a delicious Sunday roast dinner with roast potatoes and yorkshire pudding! I don't understand the big complaints about English food, I love it and ALWAYS go home gaining tons of weight, yum, yum!

Thursday, April 9, 2009

Turkey



Hello! Turkey was wonderful. Can't wait to go back, and we will! There is so much to share about our quick 9 day visit to the Aegean Coast and Istanbul. Highlights: We made a wonderful friend on the ferry from Greece, Shule, and she insisted that we spend an extra day in Bodrum so that she could show us the beauty of the area. I was trying to make up for the 'lost' week stuck on the Greek islands, but Anna, Michael and Shule pleaded so I said, 'What the heck?! This was meant to happen, time to meet a wonderful new friend! We're on nobody's schedule but our own. Let's get to know this place!' She and her partner, Zafar, welcomed us into their home, shared a delicious Turkish dinner, breakfast and lunch with us, and drove us all around to see the sites - places we never could have gotten to or known about on our own. Michael had so much fun with Zafar playing guitar and learning backgammon from Shule. We visited Zafar's work with a foundation for physically challenged children (he's a physical therapist). It was an amazing introduction into an amazing country. Thank you Shule and Zafar!!

We left Bodrum and traveled north on one of the great buses of Turkey (they're like airplanes: super friendly attendents, food and drink service, comfortable, timely, inexpensive - actually I guess much better than airplanes!) We arrived in the town of Selcuk where we visited the Roman ruins at Ephesus; and one can hardly call them ruins as there is much of the formerly 300,000 populated city left. Also in Selcuk we visited our third Wonder of the Ancient World, the Temple of Artemis - or what is left of it. (we've also passed through the former standing ground of the Colossus of Rhodes and the Great Mausoleum of King Mausolus in Bodrum) The storks are enjoying nesting on what remains of Artemis' Temple nowadays.

From Selcuk we took an overnight bus to the Dardenelle Straits and visited Gallipoli. A very beautiful place now which belies its violent and sad past. Very interesting for me as my grandfather and two great uncles fought, and luckily, survived here in World War I. Michael liked playing on the beach at Anzac Cove; fortunately the Australians we were with didn't mind and actually enjoyed watching him enjoying himself. I think it lightened the mood a bit. Didn't have time to stop in Troy, but we drove past, and we thought of it, and also thought 'that's one less ruin to roam around. Phew!'

Then by bus around the Sea of Marmara to Istanbul. Here we met up with my sister Anne and her husband, and all the cousins had a great time exploring this interesting city together for a few days. Lots of mosques, bazaar shopping, hookah smoking (the herbal variety), site seeing, whirling dervishes. The highlight, though, had to be the deluxe Dan Bodansky Bosphorus Transit Tour on which we were ably guided by my brother-in-law, guidebook in hand and nose in the air to sense the trail, up the Bosphorus toward the Black Sea and back to Istanbul in time for a little evening shopping at the Sunday Ortakoy market, cafe backgammon, and dinner. We enjoyed 7 different modes of transportation in fewer hours: taxi, ferry, feet, bus, 100 year old trolley, cable car, and tram. What a memorable and funny journey!

Our last day was cut short by President Obama's historic visit to Turkey - his first official overseas visit, and to a Muslim country no less! Way to go him for reaching out a friendly hand! However, for us, it could not have been more ill-timed. The security was so tight that the whole city movement was stopped: roads closed, transportation shut down (and Istanbul has amazingly efficient public transport, but not on this day). No taxis, no shuttles, no trams - ugh! We were able to get out of the city early in the morning and spent almost 7 hours at the airport waiting for our flight - but at least we made it.

Back to England now to spend some much looked forward to time with friends in Devon.